![]() ![]() Drill out the back of one of the anti-foulers to 1/2 inch, so that you can screw the other non-modified anti-foulers into one end and then screw the O2 sensor into the other end. Remove the O2 sensor, get 2 spark pug anti-foulers from the nearest parts store ($4 tops). You can leave the pre-cat as-is and this should get rid of your CEL.or you can guy it for S's and G's but it might sound like rice. My suggestions is to use the sparkplug anti-fouler trick, I've done it in the past on previous cars and for $4 and an hours worth of work it's totally worth it (I'm most likely the other retard who spent an entire hour on this). Guess I'll just go with an OEM (or high flow, if it's cheaper) cat. Sounds like any modifications would be rather complicated. Then again, many Protege owners report the front cat going bad around 90k miles as a normal thing, so maybe us getting 130k out of it was good? I speculate that that could have helped the cat along. The O2 sensor codes have been lit for the past 20-30k miles, but we just haven't had the extra cash to get them fixed. If you have a CEL code for it, you have to fix that before doing anything else. There may be a header change to do it, an aftermarket header, or perhaps gutting the front cat.Ĭonsider that what often kills the front cat is a misfire. ![]() There may be no simple "straight pipe" for the front cat. If you delete the front O2 sensor, you can possibly get rid of the CEL by relocating the rear O2 sensor to behind the main (rear, bigger) cat. The rear O2 sensor only monitors the cat. This is the same problem that BRIGHT ON3 originally posted on this topic, but it was 2 years ago.The front O2 sensor is used by the ECU to determine fueling. I have to floor it to get me and 3 passengers up to speed while merging on the freeway, and it takes about 12-15 seconds to get up to 65. It feels as if I'm towing a 3,000lb trailer behind me. It hesitates real bad between 2-5k rpms, almost no power. But if it's driven and then only sat for 1-4 hours it starts right up and it won't smoke. We noticed it in the morning after it's sat overnight, or if the car has sat for 6-8 hours or longer. Right after the oil change it started smoking. I noticed that it did have a genuine Mazda parts filter on it ( which shows the owner took good care of it and the carfax showed it went to the dealership every 3k miles for a oil change) Used a fram filter and 4 quarts syn blend valvoline 5w-30. When I bought this car it didn't seem to smoke at all for the first week or two, until I changed the oil and filter in it myself (because I figured it should be done not knowing last time it was changed) I grabbed the valve with pliers through the exhaust port and I didn't feel any play)Ģ) there is a small crack in the oil galley from the block to the head leaking oil into the cylinder (thus causing the same problem regardless of old or new head)ģ) the oil ring on the piston is bad (even though compression is ~200PSI in all cylinders) My thoughts are:ġ) Possible the seals/guides are bad again in the new head (but not likely. I'm about to call if quits and go for a new motor but I don't want to.Īt this point anything could be possible. I hope the pictures help show what the problem is. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |